Muggy Weld Super Alloy 1 Pot Metal Repair Kit
Whether it's called pot metal, pewter, or zinc die cast repairing it has typically been difficult due to its low melting point. Ask any welder and you'll hear the same thing "Put a torch to pot metal and it's gone before the filler rod melts." Ask anyone who's tried to restore original classic car parts and they'll tell you "Pot metal pits and breaks easily and is very difficult to repair."
Muggy Weld Super Alloy 1 bonds at half the melting point of the pot metal, and the honey flux turns root beer brown to indicate when the base metal has reached the proper temperature--enabling anyone to restore their pot metal easier than ever before. Don't take chances with your parts. Other rods melt at 700°F and are dangerously close to melting the pot metal before the rod is even applied. Muggy Weld's 350°F rod is the rod of choice for pot metal repair.
Can you plate it? Absolutely! Is it strong? As strong as the base metal. Watch the videos below to see just how easy it is. Never ruin or collapse another pot metal part.
Have a piece of pot metal that is badly pitted? Pits in pot metal are the #1 problem in antique auto restoration. Anyone can have their car painted in any auto body shop or buy aftermarket parts for their car. But when it comes to pot metal parts, they are not readily available. It's either fix it or go without. And having your pot metal part repaired can be costly, as well as time consuming.
We have the answer. Super Alloy 1 solder can repair pits in white metal or pot metal with any heat source, including a soldering gun, heat gun, or propane torch with no welding expertise. This material allows you to keep your car 100% original.
- 5 x 18" x 1/8" Thick rods OR 7 x 18" 3/32" Thick Rods
- 1 jar flux
How to Repair Pot Metal Pits with Muggy Weld Super Alloy 1
Pot metal pitting (or white metal pitting) can be easily repaired with Super Alloy 1. Start by cleaning up the base metal and drilling the pits with a Dremel tool, although any drill will work.
- Oxidation tends to be the biggest factor in pot metal repair failure. Because parts begin to oxidize immediately upon exposing the bare metal, we recommend preparing your part immediately before applying Super Alloy 1, for best results.
- First clean the pot metal, then drill the pits. Be sure to remove ALL oxidation from every pit, or the material will not bond properly.
- Every time you add the rod, add the flux to ensure proper flow.
- If the flux turns black, you've overheated it. Simply remove the flux with warm water and start over.
Super Alloy 5 The 600° Aluminum Weld
- Flows like silver solder on thin aluminum
- Bonds at half the melting point of aluminum
- Matching flux not only cleans the work area, but also serves as an absolute temperature guide
- Filler rod bonds right through paint, oil, dirt, grease, etc.
- Can be machined, drilled, tapped, threaded, plated, anodized or even bent without causing pinholes or porosity
- Creates a malleable bond that is stronger than the parent metal
- Works with any heat source: propane, natural gas, oxy-acetylene, Mapp gas.
- Makes an excellent tig rod!
Mechanics who usually experience difficulty in welding damaged aluminum find it easy to make superior repairs using Super Alloy 5. This highly alloyed material can easily be applied without the base metal sagging, collapsing or even wrinkling. Super Alloy 5, while being a perfect color match, actually flows on aluminum much as a brazing rod does and without damage to the base metal. Any mechanic who can braze can easily use Super Alloy 5.